Twilight Tourism and the Last Bellwether County for The Times of London
November 17, 2024

Twilight Tourism in Forks, Washington

Twilight movie posters hang in a shop window in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. The book series Twilight was set in Forks, Washington, and draws thousands of fans of the books to the tiny town to see sites associated with the characters in the books.
Faith Hines, 18, of Idaho Falls, is a Twilight fan who came to the Forks Visitor Center in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. Hines says she has been on a roadtrip that included visiting Twilight movie filming locations in Oregon as a present for graduating from high school. On her bag is a hairclip that resembles the character Edward from the movies. The book series Twilight was set in Forks, Washington, and draws thousands of fans of the books to the tiny town to see sites associated with the characters in the books. The Forks Visitor Center has information for tourists interested in both Twilight-related and other tourism in the region, including nearby Olympic National Park.

Over the course of two and a half days, I worked with writer Harriet Alexander on two stories for The Times of London on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula: looking at Twilight-related tourism in the tiny town of Forks, Washington, now almost two decades after the first Twilight book was published, and a look at the political sentiment in Clallam County, deemed by many to be the last bellwether county in the US.

For the first, we spent a day speaking with locals, tourists, and businesses about how the vampire and werewolf franchise Twilight still brings people from around the world to one of the most remote parts of Washington State. Some are tired of all the traffic and difficulty getting a table at the local diner, but others think that with the decline in logging in the region, without Twilight, there might not be much left to Forks.

A vintage pickup truck similar to what Bella Swan had in the Twilight novels stands parked with a "BELLA" license plate outside the Forks Visitor Center in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. The book series Twilight was set in Forks, Washington, and draws thousands of fans of the books to the tiny town to see sites associated with the characters in the books. The Forks Visitor Center has information for tourists interested in both Twilight-related and other tourism in the region, including nearby Olympic National Park.
Twilight memorabilia is displayed in the Forks Visitor Center in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. The book series Twilight was set in Forks, Washington, and draws thousands of fans of the books to the tiny town to see sites associated with the characters in the books. The Forks Visitor Center has information for tourists interested in both Twilight-related and other tourism in the region, including nearby Olympic National Park.
Thomas Sweeney (right) takes a photo of Abbott Phinney, both of Seattle, posing with cardboard cutouts of Twilight movie actors stand in a corner of the Native By Twilight souvenir shop in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. The Twilight series was set in Forks, Washington, and draws thousands of fans of the books to the tiny town to see sites associated with the characters in the books.
People look at Twilight memorabilia, including movie props and costumes, in the Forever Twilight in Forks Collection museum in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. The book series Twilight was set in Forks, Washington, and draws thousands of fans of the books to the tiny town to see sites associated with the characters in the books.
The Cullen name is displayed on the mailbox outside the Miller Tree Inn, a bed and breakfast in a historic farmhouse that is said to be similar to the Cullen House in the Twilight series of books, in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. The book series Twilight was set in Forks, Washington, and draws thousands of fans of the books to the tiny town to see sites associated with the characters in the books. The Thurmans, a husband and wife team, bought the house in 2021 and say that the bed and breakfast is popular with both Twilight fans and other travelers. Signs outside the Inn ask Twilight fans who come to see the building not to enter or bother guests. During the annual Twilight Forever festival every summer, Trent portraits Chief Swan and M.B. portrays Rosalie, both of which are characters from the books and movies, and also host a gathering called Vampire Central at the Inn.
Twilight memorabilia is displayed in the Forks Visitor Center in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. The book series Twilight was set in Forks, Washington, and draws thousands of fans of the books to the tiny town to see sites associated with the characters in the books. The Forks Visitor Center has information for tourists interested in both Twilight-related and other tourism in the region, including nearby Olympic National Park.
Signs tell Twilight fans not to bother guests staying at the Miller Tree Inn, a bed and breakfast in a historic farmhouse that is said to be similar to the Cullen House in the Twilight series of books, in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. The book series Twilight was set in Forks, Washington, and draws thousands of fans of the books to the tiny town to see sites associated with the characters in the books. The Thurmans, a husband and wife team, bought the house in 2021 and say that the bed and breakfast is popular with both Twilight fans and other travelers. Signs outside the Inn ask Twilight fans who come to see the building not to enter or bother guests. During the annual Twilight Forever festival every summer, Trent portraits Chief Swan and M.B. portrays Rosalie, both of which are characters from the books and movies, and also host a gathering called Vampire Central at the Inn.
Trent (blue shirt) and M.B. Thurman are the owners of the Miller Tree Inn, a bed and breakfast in a historic farmhouse that is said to be similar to the Cullen House in the Twilight series of books, seen here in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. The book series Twilight was set in Forks, Washington, and draws thousands of fans of the books to the tiny town to see sites associated with the characters in the books. The Thurmans, a husband and wife team, bought the house in 2021 and say that the bed and breakfast is popular with both Twilight fans and other travelers. Signs outside the Inn ask Twilight fans who come to see the building not to enter or bother guests. During the annual Twilight Forever festival every summer, Trent portraits Chief Swan and M.B. portrays Rosalie, both of which are characters from the books and movies, and also host a gathering called Vampire Central at the Inn.
Twilight souvenirs and memorabilia are for sale in the Native By Twilight souvenir shop in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. The book series Twilight was set in Forks, Washington, and draws thousands of fans of the books to the tiny town to see sites associated with the characters in the books.
Twilight-themed mugs are seen in a shop window in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. The book series Twilight was set in Forks, Washington, and draws thousands of fans of the books to the tiny town to see sites associated with the characters in the books.
A bumper sticker reading "Vampires [heart] Forks" is seen on the information desk in the Forks Visitor Center in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. The book series Twilight was set in Forks, Washington, and draws thousands of fans of the books to the tiny town to see sites associated with the characters in the books. The Forks Visitor Center has information for tourists interested in both Twilight-related and other tourism in the region, including nearby Olympic National Park.
A sign reading "No vampires beyond this point" marks the so-called Treaty Line outside Forks, WA, in La Push, Washington, USA, on Tue., June 4, 2024. In the Twilight book series, set in Forks, WA, the Treaty Line marks a boundary between vampires' territory and the Quileute tribe's territory. This sign is covered in written messages and names from Twilight fans who have visited the location. The other side of the sign says "Welcome Twilight Fans."

Clallam County, the last bellwether

Flanked by conservative flags, Hickory Grant is a Republican candidate for State Representative of Washington's Legislative District 24, Position 2, and a current Forks City Council member, seen here in his welding shop in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. Forks is in Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan. Hickory Grant said, "There's a lot of places around the country where I wouldn't fit in, but here I'm par for the course." He says the state government is trying to kill logging, an industry that Forks depended on over the last century, through regulation and environmental policies. "I'm really not excited about going to Olympia [the state capital] at all because I despise cities," he said.

And the second story for the Times was about how election results in Clallam County over the past 40 years have matched the winner of the national presidential election. We spoke with local politicians, voters, party activists, and everyone in between.

Ultimately, after November’s election results were tabulated, Clallam County lost it’s status as a bellwether for the national electorate. The county’s citizens voted 52% to 44% in favor of Vice President Kamala Harris over former President Donald Trump.

Free bumper stickers reading "What have Republicans done for you?" lay on a shelf in the Clallam County Democrats office in Port Angeles, Washington, USA, on Thu., June 6, 2024. Port Angeles is in Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan.
A mural depicts the Puget Sound ferry MV Kalakala in Port Angeles, Washington, USA, on Thu., June 6, 2024. Port Angeles is in Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan. The art deco ferry operated from 1935 to 1967.
Rifles for sale stand on a shelf in Decker City Hardware, which includes a gun shop, in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. Higher capacity magazines are not legal to sell in Washington state. Forks is in Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan. Dean Decker, the owner of Decker City Hardware, is a former owner/operator of a logging truck and his family has been in the area for decades; "I have hauled logs off of a stand that my dad logged." Decker is a conservative but says, "I think [the area] is far less conservative than it was. I think we've gotten softer." As a gun store operator, Decker is particularly concerned with gun rights. "I can't sell [customers] what I want," he says, "I can't sell any AR15 [rifles] in Washington state."
Marcia Kelbon, a Republican candidate for State Senate in Washington's 24th Legislative District, walks through a neighborhood while canvassing potential voters in Port Angeles, Washington, USA, on Thu., June 6, 2024. Port Angeles is the county seat of Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan. Marcia Kelbon says she knocks on prospective voters' doors around the district 5 days a week and has driven 11,000 miles and gone through two pairs of shoes. Kelbon says, "I'm more moderate on social issues. I don't like to tell people what to do. On the doorstep [when meeting voters], the thing I want to know is what matters to you on the state level."
Marcia Kelbon, a Republican candidate for State Senate in Washington's 24th Legislative District, (right) speaks with Eric Hernandez, 56, while canvassing a neighborhood in Port Angeles, Washington, USA, on Thu., June 6, 2024. Hernandez says that he's an independent. "I hope people vote their conscience and not their party," he said. Port Angeles is the county seat of Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan. Marcia Kelbon uses data in a phone app from the state Republican party to identify which houses to approach and says she knocks on prospective voters' doors around the district 5 days a week and has driven 11,000 miles and gone through two pairs of shoes. Kelbon says, "I'm more moderate on social issues. I don't like to tell people what to do. On the doorstep [when meeting voters], the thing I want to know is what matters to you on the state level."
Marcia Kelbon, a Republican candidate for State Senate in Washington's 24th Legislative District, leaves flyers with a handwritten note if a person doesn't answer a door while canvassing a neighborhood in Port Angeles, Washington, USA, on Thu., June 6, 2024. Port Angeles is the county seat of Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan. Marcia Kelbon uses data in a phone app from the state Republican party to identify which houses to approach and says she knocks on prospective voters' doors around the district 5 days a week and has driven 11,000 miles and gone through two pairs of shoes. Kelbon says, "I'm more moderate on social issues. I don't like to tell people what to do. On the doorstep [when meeting voters], the thing I want to know is what matters to you on the state level."
Marcia Kelbon, a Republican candidate for State Senate in Washington's 24th Legislative District, speaks with Dana Martell, 44, while canvassing a neighborhood in Port Angeles, Washington, USA, on Thu., June 6, 2024. Port Angeles is the county seat of Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan. Marcia Kelbon uses data in a phone app from the state Republican party to identify which houses to approach and says she knocks on prospective voters' doors around the district 5 days a week and has driven 11,000 miles and gone through two pairs of shoes. Kelbon says, "I'm more moderate on social issues. I don't like to tell people what to do. On the doorstep [when meeting voters], the thing I want to know is what matters to you on the state level."
Haley Love, 30, is a worker at The Great Northern Coffee Bar in Port Angeles, Washington, USA, on Thu., June 6, 2024. Port Angeles is in Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan.
Dean Decker is the owner of Decker City Hardware, which includes a gun shop, in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. Forks is in Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan. Dean Decker is a former owner/operator of a logging truck and his family has been in the area for decades; "I have hauled logs off of a stand that my dad logged." Decker is a conservative but says, "I think [the area] is far less conservative than it was. I think we've gotten softer." As a gun store operator, Decker is particularly concerned with gun rights. "I can't sell [customers] what I want," he says, "I can't sell any AR15 [rifles] in Washington state."
Greg Scherer, 72, of Sequim, Wash., will be performing in a production of Sinclair Lewis's "It Can't Happen Here," seen here during a rehearsal in the Clallam County Democrats office in Port Angeles, Washington, USA, on Thu., June 6, 2024. Port Angeles is in Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan. "It Can't Happen Here" is a play and novel about the rise of a fascist dictator in American politics. The Port Angeles performance starts with an introduction that "any resemblance to current political events is purely coincidental."
Chelsea Rider, 36, says she is planning to vote for Joe Biden while hanging out at Mix-It Shack, a rolled ice cream and snack shop in Port Angeles, Washington, USA, on Thu., June 6, 2024. Port Angeles is in Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan. Rider says, "I think the things people care about are having their family be safe."
People rehearse a performance of Sinclair Lewis's "It Can't Happen Here" in the Clallam County Democrats office in Port Angeles, Washington, USA, on Thu., June 6, 2024. Port Angeles is in Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan. "It Can't Happen Here" is a play and novel about the rise of a fascist dictator in American politics. The Port Angeles performance starts with an introduction that "any resemblance to current political events is purely coincidental."
The sign for Shirley's Cafe in Port Angeles, Washington, USA, on Thu., June 6, 2024. Port Angeles is in Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan.
As people rehearse a performance of Sinclair Lewis's "It Can't Happen Here," a print showing a triumphant embrace between US President Joe Biden and Vice President Kamala Harris hangs on a wall in the Clallam County Democrats office in Port Angeles, Washington, USA, on Thu., June 6, 2024. Port Angeles is in Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan. "It Can't Happen Here" is a play and novel about the rise of a fascist dictator in American politics. The Port Angeles performance starts with an introduction that "any resemblance to current political events is purely coincidental."
A Trump 2024 banner with the slogan "Let's Go Brandon" hangs on a building's exterior at the Forks Airport in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. Forks is in Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan.
A pistol decorated to look like the American flag stands in a display case in Decker City Hardware, which includes a gun shop, in Forks, Washington, USA, on Wed., June 5, 2024. Higher capacity magazines are not legal to sell in Washington state. Forks is in Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan. Dean Decker, the owner of Decker City Hardware, is a former owner/operator of a logging truck and his family has been in the area for decades; "I have hauled logs off of a stand that my dad logged." Decker is a conservative but says, "I think [the area] is far less conservative than it was. I think we've gotten softer." As a gun store operator, Decker is particularly concerned with gun rights. "I can't sell [customers] what I want," he says, "I can't sell any AR15 [rifles] in Washington state."
Biden/Harris campaign buttons hang on a wall in the Clallam County Democrats office in Port Angeles, Washington, USA, on Thu., June 6, 2024. Port Angeles is in Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan.
An Uncle Sam statue stands in the window of Laurel Barber Shop in downtown in Port Angeles, Washington, USA, on Thu., June 6, 2024. Port Angeles is in Clallam County on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the last of the so-called bellwether counties in the United States, which have historically voted for the winning presidential candidate in national US elections. Clallam county has voted for the winning presidential candidate in every election going back to Ronald Reagan.
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