M. Scott Brauer

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An overhead view of the Old City of Kashgar, Xinjiang, China, seen in a public display of government plans to redevelop the section.
Uighurs walk through a market in the center of the Old City in Kashgar, Xinjiang, China.
Riot police patrol the streets of Kashgar, Xinjiang, China.  After fighting between Uighurs and Hans in 2009, the government has maintained a heavy police presence in the city.
Plans for the redevelopment of the Old City of Kashgar, Xinjiang, China.  The plans will radically change the neighborhood, replacing the old-style alleyways and houses with contemporary Chinese apartment block style residences.
A man and child walk past demolished buildings near new construction at the edge of the Old City in Kashgar, Xinjiang, China.
Buildings near the Grand Bazaar are demolished as part of a plan to redevelop the Old City of Kashgar, Xinjiang, China.
Mohmat, 60, in his home near the Grand Bazaar in Kashgar, Xinjiang, China.  He is optimistic about plans to rebuild ramshackle houses in the Old City.
Government officials tour a public display of construction plans for the Old City of Kashgar, Xinjiang, China.  The display provides visual evidence of houses in poor condition and lays out plans for the future of the city.
Young Uighurs sell nan and other baked goods in Kashgar, Xinjiang, China.
High-end businesses aimed at the Han community abutt the southern edge of the Old City in Kashgar, Xinjiang, China.
Installed in 1968 during a time of ethnic tensions, this statue not far from the Old City in Kashgar, Xinjiang, China, is one of the largest statues of Chairman Mao Zedong in China.
The Id Kah Mosque, and surrounding plaza, in Kashgar, Xinjiang, China, serve as the spiritual center of the Uighur minority.  In recent years, the local government has retiled the square and removed tiles that indicate the direction of Mecca.
Men butcher a cow outside of a small mosque in the Old City of Kashgar, Xinjiang, China.
Uighur men transport construction materials in the Old City section of Kashgar, Xinjiang, China.
Uighur men trade livestock at the Kashgar Sunday Animal Market in Kashgar, Xinjiang, China.  For hundreds of years, the Kashgar Sunday Animal Market was a weekly fixture on the streets of the city.  In the 1990s, in a government bid clean up the city, the market was moved to a special facility outside the city.
Cranes hover above the Old City of Kashgar, Xinjiang, China.
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One of the world’s oldest cities, Kashgar serves as both the spiritual and political capital of traditional Uighur culture. Since 1949, the modern People’s Republic of China has exerted strong control over the region, and Kashgar has been particularly hard hit. Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region, a province covering 1/6th of China’s territory holds a majority of the country’s oil and gas reserves. Long at odds with the Uighurs’ sometimes bloody quest for independence, the Chinese government has insituted a program of subsidized migration and settlement in the area by Han majority Chinese. In so doing, the government hopes to develop a stable and robust economy whose purpose is the exploitation of the region’s natural resources and to overwhelm the local ethnicities. Whereas the Uighur population of Kashgar was previously as high as 90%, as a result of government resettlement, the Uighur population is plummeting.

At the heart of Kashgar is the so-called Old City. A candidate for UNESCO World Heritage status, the twisting alleyways and haphazardly built houses clump together and spring out of the city’s terrain in an organic and natural way. After sporadic uprisings and fighting between Uighurs and Hans, the Beijing-controlled municipal government has unveiled plans to completely renovate the Old City. Uighur families who’ve lived in the same location for, in some cases, hundreds of years will be uprooted and resettled in cookie cutter apartment blocks built according to contemporary Chinese building standards. Notwithstanding the individual upheaval of this process, the redevelopment of central Kashgar will radically transform the nature of daily life in the Uighur community. The alleyways of the Old City create a naturally closed and safe neighborhood structure in which children can play and neighbors interact without fear of outsiders or traffic. These alleyways also lead to central streets, arteries for the community on which Uighur-owned businesses thrive.

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